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Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Prepared Neighborhood Newsletter Oct. - Dec. 2012




              Oct – Dec 2012

           Preserving Seeds for Your Garden

  Given the current economic situation, garden seeds are once again in demand. People are wisely cutting their budgets and looking for ways to reduce their food bills. One way to do that is to grow your own vegetables.                                                  
  Whether you decide to buy seeds in a garden store or dry seeds on your own from a garden crop, you need to be aware of proper drying and storage methods to assure that your stock of seeds lasts several years. If you do not do this correctly, the lifespan and viability of your seeds will be very short. If you do it correctly, properly stored seeds will remain viable and will germinate for several years after storage.
 The key to making seeds last for many years is to dry them properly and put them in a state of dormancy, which slows down their internal metabolism. If the seeds hold too much moisture, they will continue to consume their internal energy and will die. Drying them out too much can also shorten their lives, but that is less of a threat than allowing them to retain moisture. The key to keeping seeds dormant is to keep then cool and dry.
Open Pollinated or heirloom, self-pollinated plants are the only varieties that will grow true from seed, meaning the seedlings will be exactly like the parents. These are the seeds worth saving.
Seeds that have been hybridized will grow into a variety of plants with some characteristics of either or both parents. Many, if not most, of the plants being sold now are hybrids. Hybridizing can create a plant with desirable traits and affords some job security for the seed company. Seed saving is not really an option with hybrids, unless you are looking to discover something new.

Drying Techniques for Seeds
 This works for a wide range of seeds, including beans, tomatoes, peas, squash, melons, and other seed bearing vegetables. Seeds should be taken from ripe fruits and vegetables. Some people save seeds from the first tomatoes that ripen every year. The belief is that this will encourage crops that ripen early.
 The most common method is to simply pick the seeds from uncooked vegetables and wash them by gently rubbing them between your fingers. Some seeds, such as tomatoes, have a jelly-like coating that should be removed. The seeds can then be left on a dry paper towel in a warm, dry environment to let them dry out naturally.
 Preserving Seeds With Proper Storage
 Remember that is important to keep seeds cool and dry. That means that they cannot be exposed to intermittent high moisture, such as during rainy seasons. Moisture can start to bring seeds out of dormancy and will shorten their lives.
 Once your seeds are dried properly, they need to be sealed in glass jars, ZipLock baggies, or plastic containers and stored somewhere cool, dry and dark. A closet or box in a cool base   


ment will typically work well. You can refrigerate or freeze seeds if you wish. Freezing can increase the longevity up to ten times. Refrigeration can extend the viability up to five times longer than normal. If your seeds would normally last three or four years with proper storage, freezing or refrigeration extends this significantly.
 If you store seeds every year, make sure that you rotate your stock to keep it fresh. Some seed storing enthusiasts periodically check the viability of the older stock of seeds by placing perhaps ten to twenty seeds in a wet paper towel that is placed into a closed ZipLock bag. Place the bag in a warm place and check to see how many seeds germinate. This will tell you if your stock of seeds is reaching their limit for storage.
  If you don’t want to dry non-hybrid, known as heirloom seeds, you can buy your local store-bought garden seeds and just store them in a dry, cool area.  I would suggest purchasing two years’ worth of these seeds and storing them properly.  For detailed information check out these links:
www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/M1226.html



Prepared Neighborhood Newsletter Jul. - Sep. 2012




              July –  Sep 2012

Fire

  According to the Red Cross, the third leading cause of accidental death in recent years has been fire. Most of these fires have occurred in the home, which is a particularly dangerous environment. Fire is always a possible danger, and a probable secondary disaster in the event of a major earthquake or flood. It is always important that you follow safety measures for fire prevention, detection, and escape. It is doubly important after an earthquake because regular fire fighters may not be able to get to you in time. Floods and other natural disasters will also spawn a large number of fires because of electrical shorts and severed gas lines.
Prevention
  Most accidental fires can be avoided with a little care. Firemen have a saying that "a clean building seldom burns." Good housekeeping is the first line of defense against home fires. Do you practice fireproof housekeeping?  There are several steps a family can take to minimize the possibility of a fire starting in their home and to minimize the effects of a fire should one occur.
         Install fire extinguishers in danger                                     spots.  The hand pump, inexpensive, 5-gallon, water type is preferred. Carbon Tetrachloride and other vaporizing liquid type extinguishers are NOT recommended for use in small enclosed spaces, because of the dangers of poisonous fumes.
         Make sure fire extinguishers are                           accessible and maintained.
         Keep a garden hose near the water faucet at all times, especially in the winter months when fire danger is greatest.
         Install adequate insulation at all heating locations. This is particularly important around wood and coal-burning stoves.
         Repair or replace defective or inadequate electrical wiring.
         Use only the proper size fuses.
         Replace frayed electrical cords or broken plugs.
         Do not run cords under rugs or hook cords over nails.
         Keep electric outlets safely loaded (no overloads).Keep appliances clean and in good repair.
         Perform required maintenance on heating systems.
         Dispose of trash immediately.
         Use only non-flammable cleaning fluids.
         Keep gasoline and other flammable liquids in tightly- closed metal containers.
         Do NOT use a combustible liquid to freshen a fire.
         Keep garage, basement, attic, closets, etc. free of rubbish.
         Keep the yard and garden well trimmed (no tall weeds, etc.).
         Use a fireplace screen.
         Install a spark arrestor on your chimney.
         Place curtains and drapes so that they won't blow into flames or touch hot surfaces from stoves, fireplaces, candles, etc.
         Supervise children playing near an open fire.
         Store matches in metal containers out of sight and reach of small children.
         Turn pot handles away from the edge of the stove.
         Keep important papers and documents in a fire-proof box or safe.
         Install and maintain home smoke detectors.
         More lives are saved each year by smoke detectors than all other fire fighting tools and equipment combined. A home without one is only inviting trouble or tragedy.
         Post emergency numbers for the fire department on ALL telephones.
         Each family should have a pre-arranged escape plan for getting out of their home in case of fire. There should be at least two exits from every room (doors or windows).


         Determine a pre-arranged meeting area that all family members should go to IMMEDIATELY when they leave the home if it is on fire. This could be a tree in the front yard, the neighbor's porch, etc. This will facilitate taking a "head count" and could save the life of a would-be rescuer who returns to a burning building to search for someone who has already gotten out.
Detection
 Statistics show that most FATAL fires occur while the family is sleeping. Smoke and toxic gases are the killers in most home fires rather than flames. Smoke detectors (either ionization types or photo-electric detectors powered by electricity or battery) can alert your family while the fire is still small, which may mean the difference between life and death.
 For minimum protection there should be a smoke detector between the bedrooms or sleeping areas and the rest of the house, and/or a smoke detector at the head of each stairway.  The amount of detection equipment needed in your home or apartment will be determined by the size and floor plan of your living space, your life style, and how much money your family is willing to spend. (Your local fire department can give you assistance in planning your fire detection system).
CERT training is available by registering at:  http://www.unifiedfire.org/divisions/community/cert.aspx    
After registering, take the online training at:           http://www.citizencorps.gov/cert/IS317/
September  13, 20, 27  October 4, 11                         LDS Church, 4113 West 6200 South, Taylorsville, Thursdays   6:30pm-9:30pm  Register Today!!



Prepared Neighborhood Newsletter Apr. - Jun. 2012




          April   June 2012
Garden Preparation Made Easy

Excuses, Excuses:
-       I don’t know how:  We are here to learn by experience.  Every year I learn something new.  Start small and increase yearly.
-       Bad soil:  too much clay, rocks, or sand.  If it grows healthy weeds, the soil isn’t that bad.  If it is that bad, you can grow a lot of different veggies in pots while you are working to improve your soil.
-       Don’t know what to grow:  Try tomatoes, summer squash, peppers, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, beets, green onions, lettuce, spinach, chard, bush beans, peas, herbs, and pole beans.
-       Too many weeds:  Plant in pots until you’ve got your weeds under control.
-       It’s much easier to buy at the store:  In time of national emergency, you’ll be glad you prepared your soil and learned how to garden.  Learn now to develop good gardening skills.
-       I don’t have a yard:  You can grow many vegetables in pots or containers on your porch or behind a sunny window.

Your soil is worth more than gold!
Having a patch of good soil is a better long-term asset than gold coins in the bank.  Although both of them can be used to obtain food, once you have spent the gold, it’s gone.  But soil, when properly cared for and maintained, will continue to produce food for you, year after year. 

Ideally we should work to improve the quality of our soil every year.  Even poor land can be built into productive, rich earth over time by adding a variety of types of organic matter.  The three most common are autumn leaves, animal manure, and green manure crops.  Besides the nutrients they provide, organic matter also does something else very important – it separates the soil particles and helps the soil to absorb water faster, and also helps to keep the moisture in the root zone.  About 85% of your plants’ roots will be found in the top 6 inches of the soil, so that is where you want to concentrate the organic matter.
Leaves:  Great for your garden except the black walnut tree.  Those leaves contain a chemical that will stunt or kill other plants.  Most people dig them into the garden in the fall so they have the winter to break them down.  If weather doesn’t permit you to do that, you can put them in bags and dig them into the soil in the spring.
Animal Manures:  They can be an excellent addition to the garden.  Not all animal manures are equal.  It will depend on what that animal ate and the kind of bedding material used.  If the animal was allowed to eat weeds, you will probably have some extra weeds as a result.  Avoid fresh manure.  Besides being unpleasant to work with, it will attract flies.  One more thing – Be sure you are up-to-date with you tetanus shots.
Green Manure crops:  They bypass the critters and the smell of their manures.  There are a variety of plants that can be grown for the purpose of digging them back into the soil.  There are green manures that are best grown in the spring and others that are best suited for the summer or fall, depending on when you want to do it.  If you have a patch of garden soil that is not going to be growing anything for 30 days to feed you, you can grow a green manure crop to feed your soil.
The top 4 most popular green manure crops are garden peas in the spring, beans and buckwheat in the summer, and annual ryegrass or a grain such as winter wheat, oats or rye in the fall.  You can harvest the peas and beans before turning under the plants.  The ideal is to always have something growing in the allotted garden space, planting something else as soon as possible after an area has been harvested.  As you rotate different crops in your garden, hopefully you will include a green manure crop in that rotation to feed the soil that is feeding you.

Importance of Crop rotation:
Since different types of plants draw different nutrients from the soil, it is best to rotate where you plant vegetables that are in the same family group.  For example, planting your tomatoes where you had planted your beans last year, etc.  A 4-year rotation is the ideal, hopefully including a green manure.  If a garden bed will be planted with more than one crop per year, the principles of crop rotation should apply – a bed of early lettuce should be followed by beans or carrots or corn, not more lettuce.  (Keep a record of what you plant each year and where)

The Growing Season:
The best way to counter-balance the initial costs of establishing a garden is to maximize the yield of your garden.  That means you need to be ready to replant the area as soon as something is harvested so the space isn’t idle, and to extend your growing time as much as possible on both ends of the season with the protection of a hoop house.
  A hoop house, sometimes called low tunnels, can be as big as a full-size green house.  They are a series of hoops set in the ground.  They can be either PVC pipes or metal tubing.  To keep out the critters, you use the hoops to support netting or wire fencing of some sort to create a physical barrier.  To keep out insect pests, you cover the hoops with a fabric barrier similar to a dryer sheet.  These hoops can also be used to support a plastic covering to enable you to start your garden at least six weeks earlier in the spring, and to continue for another six weeks of extra growing time at the end of the season.  That adds an extra 3 months of potential growing time.  Two layers may be involved, depending on the outside temperature.  The first layer is like a heavier version of dryer sheet material that still permits a significant amount of light to penetrate.  Over that goes a layer of heavy clear plastic.  The fabric layer is like putting on a sweater when it’s chilly outside.  The plastic layer is like adding a windbreaker.  Some gardeners just use the plastic.

Try it, it’s fun!